Building and Construction FAQ's

Applications for approval normally involves a fee, normally related in some way to the value of the development.

Where the development is more than just a simple extension, it is worth considering employing an architect to draw up the plans, submit them to the Local Authority, obtain the approval and then to oversee the work. A professional architect will have professional insurance in case anything should go wrong and should know the Local Officials and their particular foibles.

Every application for Planning Permission or Building Regulations is, to an extent, unique. While the following are general rules, it is impossible to define all the regulations applying to a specific development - Local Authorities have some thick books of rules rather than just these few pages. It is always good advice to consult your local planning/building control officers early to avoid any costly abortive work. If work is carried out without the necessary approvals, the local authority can issue an enforcement notice requiring (at best) retrospective approval or (at worst) demolition of the work completed.

Although the functions of Planning Officials and Building Inspector are separate, the two will often be found in the same building; they are normally very helpful and offer authoritative guidance.

Normally Planning Permission or Building Regulation approval is not required provided that:

• Sheds and greenhouses do not cover more than half of the area of the garden; not including the area occupied by the house.
• It contains no sleeping accommodation and the floor area does not exceed 15 square metres.
• No point is less than one metre from a boundary.
• It is not more than 3m high for a flat roof, or 4m with a ridged roof.
• Overall height from ground level to ridge must not exceed more than 2.5 metres within a 2 metre range of any boundary. A building with overall height exceeding 2.5m in height and placed within 2m of any boundary will require planning permission.
• Height of the eaves must not exceed 2.5m
• No part projects beyond any wall of the house that faces a road.
• The outbuilding is for use only by those who occupy the house.
• A Log Cabin should be more than 5 metres from the main dwelling and up to 50% of the remaining garden can be utilised with this type of building.
• No verandas higher than 30cms from ground level.
• Building Regulations do state that structures built of combustible material (i.e. a wooden shed) must be at least 2 metres from the main house.

If at all in doubt contact your local authority for clarification. No charge will be made if planning permission is not required.

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Q. A friend of mine has had a metal shed for a few years. I have now decided to buy one myself however he has warned me about condensation building up in my shed. How can I prevent this?
A. The air inside the shed is always slightly warmer than the air outside. This means that any moisture in the foundations of the buildings will rise until it reaches the cold sides where it will condense. This cycle, once started is quite difficult to stop as the condensation will then drip down and then rise again. There is a way of preventing this when you are building the base for your Metal Shed.

1- The concrete or slab base should only be a few inches larger than the base rail of the shed, e.g. a shed of 93’’ x 70’’ should have a foundation measuring 96’’ x 73’’

2- The foundation should contain a damp proof membrane which should be inserted into the base at least 2’’ higher than the surrounding soil running onto the base surface.

3- The foundations of the shed should be allowed to ‘cure’ for at least 7 days after casting the concrete, longer if the atmosphere is damp (otherwise the moisture will then contribute to more condensation).

4- After bolting down the shed to either the concrete or the slabs, mastic sealant needs to be applied to the inside of the shed preserving the drainage capacity of the channels whilst preventing water seeping into the interior of the building.

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Q. I have bought and erected a metal shed in my garden however I seem to be experiencing some condensation on the inside of the building. How do I cure this?
A.You can cure this problem in either of the following methods or (for a more efficient cure) by using both of the following methods.

1- Detach the shed from its base and construct a timber floor on raised bearers. This needs to be a few inches larger than the base of the shed itself. Fix the shed to the wooden floor using both wood screws and mastic seal on the inside of the shed base rails. This will allow air to circulate underneath the floor and ensure that it remains dry. This method will work, however you need to make sure that no water will pool underneath the wooden floor as this may then start the problem again.

2- Clean off the underside of the roof panels with Methylated Spirits and ensure that they are fully dry. Adhere polystyrene tiles to the underside of the roof (these do not have to be high quality tiles) using a spray adhesive suitable for sticking Polystyrene to metal and that is not adversely affected by the heat or cold. Both tiles and roof panels need to be coated in the spray and then as per the instructions (usually left for a minute or two) the surfaces can be bonded together. This action will not remove the moisture from the air but will however stop it from condensing due to its insulating properties.