Building and Construction FAQs

Q. Are doors and windows supplied with glazing?

A. Yes, all buildings are supplied with a styrene plastic glazing.

Q. Is everything supplied to construct the building i.e. screws, nails, felt etc?

A. Yes all parts are included as are instructions. Check our website for our Shed Assembly Kit.

Q. What tools do I need for constructing a building?

A. All Walton buildings differ, but in general, we recommend you obtain a hammer, screwdrivers both a flat head and Philips, a drill with 2mm drill bits, a tape measure, spirit level, step ladder, Stanley knife and wood saw. Check our website for our Shed Assembly Kit.

Q. Are the buildings pre-treated?

A. Yes all buildings are treated with a factory (water based) base coat, apart from the log cabins, which are left untreated. This treatment is only for protection during storage and transit and it is recommended that you treat your building yourself with a high quality preservative prior to construction. Tubs of wood treatment are available alongside the products when adding your chosen building to your basket.

Q. Is the wood treatment supplied?

A. No, it is recommended that you use a wood preservative prior to construction and re-apply as and when required. We do not recommend varnish or creosol. Tubs of wood treatment are available alongside the products when adding your chosen building to your basket.

Q. How much weight will the Walton's tongue and grooved and solid sheet floors take?

A. The floor weight loading is dependent on two things:

  1. The base structure
  2. The firmer and more level the base in all directions the better the floor will perform. Point loading is where heavy weight is concentrated in one area i.e. stiletto heel or heavy machinery. If your building is likely to fall into this criteria or be used for heavy traffic, it is very important that the original floor supplied is strengthened with a sheet material like Ply or OSB material.
  3. The material
  4. Solid sheet is a consistent manufactured material with none of the natural flaw and weaknesses apparent in natural material like tongue and grooved flooring. As long as the weight is displaced evenly, the solid sheet will maintain the ability to carry greater weights.

Q. What sizes are shown on the website - Internal or External?

A. All of the building sizes shown on the website are approximate and external sizes. Internal sizes are available, should you require further sizes please call our Web Sales Team by simply phoning 1800 936 035 or e-mail them at We are open 7 days a week, 8.30am – 5pm Mon – Fri.

Q. How many people does it take to erect a Walton's Building?

A. We recommend two people. Please check the product details on the individual product pages.

Q. How long will it take to erect a Walton's building?

A. This depends on the size of the building, the amount of people helping and the level of expertise. In general the smallest and simplest will take two people around 2 hours where as the larger more complicated models may take longer.

Q. Do I have to do any preparation before commencing assembly?

A. It is essential that the building is built on a firm and level base such as concrete slabs or pressure treated bearers. A Portabase is available to purchase with most of our garden buildings.

Q. Which direction do the bearers go?

A. The bearers will go perpendicular (at 90 degrees) to the floor joists.

Q. What size should I build the base for my garden building?

A. We recommend that the solid base should be the same size as the floor of the garden building. This allows the water to run off the sides and roof and drain away rather than pooling on the base and running under the building.

Q. Can Walton's erect my garden building for me?

A. Waltons products are sold primarliy as DIY Projects, but, we also offer an installation service to various parts of the UK. Please see options available for each building on the Customisation Page.

Q. Will I need planning permission?

A. This is in no way binding and is dependent on Local Authorities, but may be used as a guide:

Applications for approval normally involves a fee, normally related in some way to the value of the development.

Where the development is more than just a simple extension, it is worth considering employing an architect to draw up the plans, submit them to the Local Authority, obtain the approval and then to oversee the work. A professional architect will have professional insurance in case anything should go wrong and should know the Local Officials and their particular foibles.

Every application for Planning Permission or Building Regulations is, to an extent, unique. While the following are general rules, it is impossible to define all the regulations applying to a specific development - Local Authorities have some thick books of rules rather than just these few pages. It is always good advice to consult your local planning/building control officers early to avoid any costly abortive work. If work is carried out without the necessary approvals, the local authority can issue an enforcement notice requiring (at best) retrospective approval or (at worst) demolition of the work completed.

Although the functions of Planning Officials and Building Inspector are separate, the two will often be found in the same building; they are normally very helpful and offer authoritative guidance.

Normally Planning Permission or Building Regulation approval is not required provided that:

  • Sheds and greenhouses do not cover more than half of the area of the garden; not including the area occupied by the house.
  • It contains no sleeping accommodation and the floor area does not exceed 15 square metres.
  • No point is less than one metre from a boundary.
  • It is not more than 3m high for a flat roof, or 4m with a ridged roof.
  • Overall height from ground level to ridge must not exceed more than 2.5 metres within a 2 metre range of any boundary. A building with overall height exceeding 2.5m in height and placed within 2m of any boundary will require planning permission.
  • Height of the eaves must not exceed 2.5m.
  • No part projects beyond any wall of the house that faces a road.
  • The outbuilding is for use only by those who occupy the house.
  • A Log Cabin should be more than 5 metres from the main dwelling and up to 50% of the remaining garden can be utilised with this type of building.
  • No verandas higher than 30cms from ground level.
  • Building Regulations do state that structures built of combustible material (i.e. a wooden shed) must be at least 2 metres from the main house.

Q. Where should I locate my garden building?

A. The building should be built in a clear space, allowing for roof overhang. If possible, place your item in a sheltered position.

Q. Are the buildings made from wood from well managed forests?

A. Yes, Walton's are committed to the concept of sustainability, they fully support the FSC.

Q. A friend of mine has had a metal shed for a few years. I have now decided to buy one myself however he has warned me about condensation building up in my shed. How can I prevent this?

A. The air inside the shed is always slightly warmer than the air outside. This means that any moisture in the foundations of the buildings will rise until it reaches the cold sides where it will condense. This cycle, once started is quite difficult to stop as the condensation will then drip down and then rise again. There is a way of preventing this when you are building the base for your metal shed.

1- The concrete or slab base should only be a few inches larger than the base rail of the shed, e.g. a shed of 93" x 70" should have a foundation measuring 96" x 73"

2- The foundation should contain a damp proof membrane which should be inserted into the base at least 2" higher than the surrounding soil running onto the base surface.

3- The foundations of the shed should be allowed to 'cure' for at least 7 days after casting the concrete, longer if the atmosphere is damp (otherwise the moisture will then contribute to more condensation).

4- After bolting down the shed to either the concrete or the slabs, mastic sealant needs to be applied to the inside of the shed preserving the drainage capacity of the channels whilst preventing water seeping into the interior of the building.

Q. I have bought and erected a metal shed in my garden however I seem to be experiencing some condensation on the inside of the building. How do I cure this?

A. You can cure this problem in either of the following methods or (for a more efficient cure) by using both of the following methods.

1- Detach the shed from its base and construct a timber floor on raised bearers. This needs to be a few inches larger than the base of the shed itself. Fix the shed to the wooden floor using both wood screws and mastic seal on the inside of the shed base rails. This will allow air to circulate underneath the floor and ensure that it remains dry. This method will work, however you need to make sure that no water will pool underneath the wooden floor as this may then start the problem again.

2- Clean off the underside of the roof panels with Methylated Spirits and ensure that they are fully dry. Adhere polystyrene tiles to the underside of the roof (these do not have to be high quality tiles) using a spray adhesive suitable for sticking Polystyrene to metal and that is not adversely affected by the heat or cold. Both tiles and roof panels need to be coated in the spray and then as per the instructions (usually left for a minute or two) the surfaces can be bonded together. This action will not remove the moisture from the air but will however stop it from condensing due to its insulating properties.